Overprocessed skin is skin that has been exposed to too many exfoliants, too many peels, or too many stimulants. The result can be overly sensitive skin that seems to react to everything. The barrier function of the skin is the matrix of lipids between cells in the outermost epidermis. It is this lipid barrier that keeps skin well-hydrated, protecting it from transepidermal water loss (TEWL). If we strip the barrier lipids, we can severly dehydrate and irritate the skin. When the barrier function has been disrupted, a person may feel that anything she/he applies stings and burns the skin.
How is the barrier stripped? Overexfoliating or overcleansing the skin can remove lipids creating a sensitive, dry, or inflamed skin. AHAs (glycolic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acids) work by removing surface cells, revealing a smoother surface. When used correctly, they actually improve the barrier function! However, it is when the desire of the client is to abuse and overuse certain treatments and products on the skin that overprocessing occurs. Another example, a foaming cleanser designed for oily skin, but used on dehydrated skin, can definitely strip the lipid barrier.
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