GKAY'S FAQ BLOG

WHERE CAN I FIND A GLOSSARY OF SKIN CARE TERMS?

2009-03-24T00:48:00.000-04:00

http://gkayskincare.com/gkay/glossary.html

WHAT CAN I DO REGARDING PUFFY AND WRINKLED SKIN AROUND THE EYES?

2009-03-24T00:43:00.003-04:00

Many people experience challenges around their eyes. It concerns most every man and woman today. What one person has, may not be the same for another person. Problems around the eyes can occur from a variety of causes like allergies, hereditary reasons, visible blood vessels. Others face problems related to age, fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage that crop up around the eye area.

Puffy Eyes: Puffiness of the eye area can occur for several reasons. Some can be fixed by topical skin care treatments, and others by surgery. One problem that cannot be improved topically is fatty deposits or "bags under the eyes". These deposits are generally caused by genetic factors and can usually only be improved surgically. The cause of puffiness around the eyes can often be from toxins. Toxins include everything from preservatives in food to alcoholic beverages. These can be improved by topical treatments like anti-oxidants, vitamins, and certain formulations of glycolic acids.

Dark Circles: Dark circles that are related to heredity, allergies, or minor blood vessel damage may be treated by vitamin K products. When allergies are the problem, a person must see a doctor to treat the allergy and in turn treat the eye circles.

Fine Lines And Wrinkles: Fine lines and wrinkles can be treated topically with a variety of treatments, such as topical peels. These come in different forms with the most popular and most effective are the acid peels. These peel treatments remove several layers of the epidermis. Vitamin C is also excellent for people to use. Vitamin C is great for cellular renewal, reducing pigmentation problems, and reducing the inflammation caused by many different skin contaminants all of which aid in reducing the signs of aging. Vitamin A helps to improve the elasticity of the skin through increased collagen and elastin cell growth. Glycolic acids increase collagen and elastin production and improve pigmentation.

Vitamin K is used to treat dark circles under the eyes and is known to correct bruising and blood vessel damage but not dark circles from allergies or heredity.

WHAT CAUSES LARGE PORES?

2009-03-24T00:42:00.003-04:00

The size of the pores is determined by genetics and the condition that the pores remain in over long periods of time. If the opening of the hair follicle is constantly congested or clogged, then the pore may enlarge to accommodate debris.

HOW CAN WE REVERSE CROW'S FEET?

2009-03-24T00:42:00.001-04:00

Other than using a sunscreen daily and not smoking, the use of topical anti-aging products may help such as: Retin-A, Differin, Tazorac and retinol. Feel free to use them around the eyes but not on the top eye lid. Botox can also be great but is temporary. Botox relaxes the muscles that create crow's feet. Another option is ablative or nonablative laser treatment.

WHY IS IT NOT GOOD TO USE BAR SOAP?

2009-03-24T00:31:00.000-04:00

Bar soap for your FACE is not good. Bar soaps clog your pores and dehydrate the skin because of their high alkaline amount. That means: a high pH. Normal skin's pH is about 5.5. So you do not want to use soap with a higher pH like bar soap which has a pH of 9 to 10. That's very drying on the skin. The tight feeling you feel after washing with soap does not mean that your face is cleaner than when you use other cleansers. Just because your face is "squeaky-clean", does not mean you are better off. Bar soap actually causes irritation and increases the development of bacteria. Research has been done SHOWING that if you use a bar soap with a high pH, you are increasing the presence of bacteria and you may clog your pores. The ingredients that maintain the bar soap in its appearance are what clog the pores.

HOW CAN I KEEP MY SKIN SOFT AND SMOOTH IN THE WINTER?

2009-03-24T00:30:00.000-04:00

Dry skin seems to be more common during dry, cold months, when there's less humidity. Aside from adding a humidifier to your home and office, exfoliation is your best bet for keeping so-called alligator skin at bay. While the sloughing of dead skin cells occurs naturally, chemical exfoliants aid in accelerating the process, letting new skin cells underneath shine through. These new cells also better absorb moisturizers, which you should use after exfoliation. Dry skin seems to be more common during dry, cold months, when there's less humidity. Aside from adding a humidifier to your home and office, exfoliation is your best bet for keeping so-called alligator skin at bay. While the sloughing of dead skin cells occurs naturally, chemical exfoliants aid in accelerating the process, letting new skin cells underneath shine through. These new cells also better absorb moisturizers, which you should use after exfoliation.

IS IT BAD TO USE MAKEUP IF YOU HAVE ACNE?

2009-03-24T00:29:00.002-04:00

It depends on the makeup. If the makeup contains lots of oils and fats, it can clog the pores. Try to use non-comedogenic makeup. Never sleep with makeup. Try to use liquid makeup or loose powders versus cream and pan makeup which can further clog the pores. Or use mineral makeup which is makeup made out of minerals.

IS THE BLACK TOP OF A BLACKHEAD DIRT?

2009-03-24T00:29:00.000-04:00

No, the black top of a blackhead is called oxidized sebum (oil). Sebum is made of a group of fatty substances, which oxidize very easily. An example of oxidation is how apple or potato salad turn dark after sitting out in the air. The oxygen in the air is what turns the top of a blackhead black.

DOES DIRT CAUSE ACNE?

2009-03-24T00:28:00.000-04:00

No, dirt does not cause acne. But it is imperative to have good hygiene. Hormonal surges cause acne. Hormones cause the sebaceous glands (the oil glands attached to your pores) to make more sebum (oil). They also cause a genetic predisposition for some people to have skin that holds dead cells - a condition called retention hyperkeratosis. The cells stick to the sides of the follicle (pore) and are coated with the excess sebum. This buildup of cells and hard sebum causes clogged pores, blackheads and under-the-skin bumps which lead to pimples. Regular, daily cleansing can help as well as exfoliating the skin with AHA peels to get rid of the dead layers.

WHAT SHOULD I AVOID WHEN CHOOSING SHAMPOOS AND CONDITIONERS?

2009-03-24T00:27:00.000-04:00

It is best to avoid any and all hair shampoos and conditioners that contain surfactants (sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, dissodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, cocoamphocarboxyglycinate, cocamidopropyl betaine), which are too harsh and strip the natural oil barrier from the scalp.

WHAT DOES THE NUMBER NEXT TO AN SPF MEAN?

2009-03-24T00:26:00.000-04:00

SPF equals the number tells you how long you can stay in the sun without getting burnt. For example: If normally it takes you 20 minutes till you turn pink, an SPF 15 product will let you stay in the sun for 5 hours without burning. 20 minutes x 15 (SPF) = 300 minutes, or five hours.

WHAT SHOULD I AVOID IF I AM UNDER THE TREATMENT OF ACCUTANE?

2009-03-24T00:25:00.000-04:00

A person undergoing the treatment of Accutane should avoid: waxing, microdermabrasion, chemical peels and laser hair removal. Glycolic and salicylic acid cleansers and peels should be avoided as well.

WHAT DESTROYS SKIN?

2009-03-24T00:24:00.002-04:00

What destroys skin is unprotected sun exposure, smoking, using irritating skin care products. Other than sunscreen, not using the right skin care products does NOT damage the skin in the long run but may cause problems. The wrong products can trigger allergies, redness, broken capillaries, breakouts, and change the skin texture. For example, if you wash your face every day with a bar soap (which is very drying), followed with a toner that can also be drying, and several moisturizers (which can be greasy and block pores, you can create a severe combination skin condition and cause breakouts. Or if you wipe off makeup with a cold cream and than follow up with a toner (which may contain irritants), you may develop dull looking skin with breakouts. If you have normal skin but use alcohol based AHA toner, plus a scrub, an AHA moisturizer and a clay mask, your skin may end up looking very dry, irritated with rash like pimples.

If you do not know what you are doing with your skin care routine, consult with someone who is a professional. Keep in mind that even once you have been told your skin type, it will not stay forever because of emotions, weather conditions, hormones levels, menstrual cycles, stress, physical changes, weight fluctuations, and so on.

WHAT CAN BE DONE FOR PUFFY EYES?

2009-03-24T00:24:00.001-04:00

Some people experience puffy eyes in the morning. Unfortunately there are no moisturizers or cosmetics that can change puffy eyes. Water retention is one reason why the skin around the eyes swells. It may help to sleep with your head slightly elevated. This may help impede fluid retention. Also avoid alcohol consumption and a diet high in salt because that causes water retention. Leaving makeup overnight and contact lenses may also cause swelling of the eye. You may try to place cool compresses on the eyes or a cool moisturizer (by leaving your moisturizer in the refrigerator). If puffy eyes really trouble you, you may consider cosmetic surgery.

WHY DO ACNE SCARS APPEAR?

2009-03-24T00:24:00.000-04:00

Scars are abnormal tissue developments at the site of tissue injury. In the case of acne, the injury is caused by the body's inflammatory response to sebum, bacteria and dead skin cells that have clogged the skin pore and created a blemish. When the body senses an erupted pimple, white blood cells and other inflammatory molecules sprint to patch up the damaged tissue and fight against possible infection. One way to do this is to speed up the skin's production of collagen. Oftentimes, however, the skin produces too much collagen, which eventually piles up into a firm, fibrous, irregularly shaped overgrowth, called keloid or hypertrophic scar. Other times scars can occur because of a LOSS of tissue and collagen, called ice-pick scars. Not all breakouts result in scarring. Some people are more prone to scarring than others. The best way to decrease the likelihood of acne scarring is to treat acne early. Let the professionals handle the acne. Picking the blemish at home can damage the surrounding tissue. The newest options to treat acne scars are with chemical peels and laser resurfacing. Side effects such as peeling, redness and swelling may occur temporarily.

ARE SELF-TANNERS SAFE TO USE?

2009-03-24T00:23:00.001-04:00

According to the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) yes! Self-tanning products are a safe alternative to damage by ultraviolet radiation. The active ingredient in self-tanning lotions is known as dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and works with the protein in skin cells. A single application lasts between three and five days. Color will fade as the skin begins to shed dead cells. Consumers should still use a sunscreen because self- tanners provide limited sun protection. Some self- tanners may contain a sunscreen.

WHY SHOULD I EXFOLIATE?

2009-03-24T00:23:00.000-04:00

Exfoliation is the method of removing the built-up outer layers of skin that haven't or won't come off on their own. These built-up skin cells can be from sun damage, oily skin, bad skin care products, and/or unusually generated skin cells. Exfoliation is good for all types of skin. For dry skin, exfoliation removes the excess layers of skin and helps moisturizers absorb better and can also generate collagen production, improve cell turnover, and so on. For oily skin, exfoliation prevents clogged pores, improves cell turnover, and helps keep skin clear and even-toned. Salicylic acid (BHA) is good for normal to oily skin and skin with breakouts. Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), such as Glycolic acid, is good for normal to dry skin.

WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SPF 30 AND SPF 15?

2009-03-24T00:22:00.002-04:00

An SPF 30 screens less than 4% more UV radiation than an SPF 15, but those extra few percents guard from the higher range of UVA, the main ray drawn in triggering photosensitivity and photo toxicity. Thus, SPF 30 is great for those taking photo-reactive medications such as the antibiotic Cipro and other medications, or individuals with UV-sensitive diseases such as lupus erythematosus, rheumatoid arthritis, or HIV-positive. For most people, SPF30 is too much and may be more harmful than good. Organic sunscreens such as octyl methoxycinnamate can be irritating when used at higher percentages. Most dermatologists agree that an SPF 15 is a safe bet for the average person. Just remember to reapply an SPF 15 every couple of hours during full sun exposure. And always reapply after swimming or sweating.

DO ALL SUNSCREENS CONTAIN CHEMICALS?

2009-03-24T00:22:00.001-04:00

All sunscreens contain chemicals regardless of whether they are touted as chemical or chemical-free. Chemicals are formed when two or more atoms are joined together. Thus, all ingredients used in cosmetics or drugs are chemicals. Sunscreens are chemicals that can protect the skin by absorbing, reflecting or scattering ultraviolet (UV) radiation. One organic sunscreen ingredient: octyl methoxycinnamate - absorbs UV radiation. Other sunscreens, such as inorganic: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, mostly work by partially blocking UV radiation, then scattering, or reflecting energy rays.

WHY IS IT THAT A FEW HOURS AFTER A FACIAL THE BLACKHEADS COME BACK?

2009-03-24T00:22:00.000-04:00

These blackheads are referred to as comedones. They are dark not because the pores are filled with dirt but because of the melanin granules that are constantly being pushed to the opening of the hair follicle. When light strikes them, they become oxidized and turn dark in color. After the facial, the granules are not visible, but as soon as you are exposed to the light of day, they reappear. The best thing is to put a sunblock right after a facial as well as use a sunblock daily. There are lightening creams for bleaching out the skin that can also be used as well to help fade the dark granules or an application of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, which will also work well.

MY SKIN CONSTANTLY CHANGES IS THIS NORMAL?

2009-03-24T00:21:00.001-04:00

Yes. Skin changes just as the seasons change. Every season the skin should be treated accordingly. For example, winter weather or even hot, dry temperatures, which can cause moisture to evaporate more easily from the skin's surface, may necessitate the use of a heavier moisturizer to help the skin retain more moisture.

WHAT CAN I DO ABOUT DARK SPOTS AND UNEVEN SKINTONE?

2009-03-24T00:21:00.000-04:00

Many skin problems, medications, medical conditions and esthetic services can lead to hyperpigmentation, including the aftermath of melasma, razor bumps, acne, chemical irritation, friction, eczema, allergic reactions, electrolysis, scrubs, hormones, certain prescription medications, obesity, chicken pox, thyroid disease, sunburn, waxing, insect bites, picking, trauma, surgical procedures, microdermabrasion and chemical peels.

Hormonal and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on all races can be improved much with light acid peels, conservative use of topical alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids in formulations containing hydroquinone and other brighteners, sun avoidance, and dilligent use of sunblock.

You may also:

1. Avoid the sun. Always wear a sunblock.

2. Get a treatment every two weeks.

3. Do not apply scented aftershaves or cologne on any exposed body parts because Perfume + Sun = Dark spots.

4. Wear 100% UV protection sunglasses at all times.

WHY IS WATER GOOD FOR MY SKIN?

2009-03-24T00:20:00.002-04:00

Water is vital for the survival of all living beings. All animal and vegetable organisms contain water. Water represents about 60 percent of body weight and that means about 13 gallons for someone who weighs about 154 pounds. Two-thirds of the body's weight is found in the cells, ensuring their necessary hydration. The level of water in the body diminishes with ages. A two-month-old fetus contains 97 percent water, a newborn 75 percent and an adult 55 percent. Smoking, an unbalanced diet, and alcohol accelerate the dehydration process. Heat, cold, wind, pollution, and air conditioning can negatively affect the skin's moisture level by deteriorating the hydrolipidic film, the intercellular lipids and the epidermal structure itself. The major cause of dehydration in cities is pollution. Relative humidity plays a role as well. The lower the humidity the more dehydrated the skin becomes. Example, when the relative humidity goes from 90 to 60 percent the skin moisture diminishes by 30 percent. If the relative humidity goes from 60 to 20 percent skin dehydration decreases by 10 percent.

IS MEN'S SKIN DIFFERENT FROM WOMEN'S?

2009-03-24T00:20:00.000-04:00

Men's skin is different from women's in that it tends to be much thicker with a great number of blood vessels and capillaries close to the skin surface. This in combination with high levels of testosterone tends to increase oil production. Because men shave, they have to deal with bumps, ingrown hairs, and skin irritations. Men need their own skin care routines that address these specific problems. Men are drawn to products that are fragrant-free, light in weight and feel virtually invisible.

Men's skin does seem to age less than women. Not only is it thicker but it is also covered with hair in the beard area. The male beard partially protects male facial skin from sun exposure.

WHAT IS THE BEST METHOD OF SHAVING?

2009-03-24T00:19:00.002-04:00

Men often complain about skin irritation problems. Electric shavers are best used by men with a light beard growth, or as an in-between method for heavier growth. The best wet shave method depends on the heaviness of growth. That is, the lighter the growth, the more likely the man can use a brushless shave cream. A shave cream with a brush is also fine to use. A shaving brush lifts the hairs up, lathers the cream and makes for a smoother and closer shave. Shaving "oils" provide a smooth shave with little irritation because they contain essential oils and since they are clear they make hair growth easy to spot. Skin irritation from shaving can be reduced by making sure a soothing, alcohol-free balm or toner is applied after the shave, not a fragranced, alcohol-based after-shave!

HOW CAN MEN PREVENT SKIN IRRITATION FROM SHAVING?

2009-03-24T00:19:00.001-04:00

Men's skin can be just as sensitive as women's. After-shave lotions can often cause irritation if they are too strong. It is recommended to use a mild after shave lotion or use witch hazel. Razors that are adjusted to "low" should be used. The low setting will inhibit the blade from scraping the skin. The setting can be changed to a higher one during the shaving if necessary unless the area is sensitive. Men can apply a moisturizer after shaving to soothe dry skin. It is suggested that men use brushless shaving creams. Brushes can often irritate the skin. And lasts, facial treatments should be given to cleanse the follicles and clear blemishes.

WHAT ARE THE ENEMIES OF THE SKIN?

2009-03-24T00:19:00.000-04:00

Skin is affected by excessive use of drugs, smoking, and alcohol. Frequent gain and loss of weight also affects the skin.

A heavy intake of alcohol overdilates the blood vessels and eventually weakens the capillary walls. When the blood expands, the weakened capillary walls can burst, causing red splotches in the white of the eyes or under the skin. Alcohol can also dehydrate the skin by drawing water out of the tissues.

Studies about drugs have been shown where drugs interferes with the intake of oxygen, which the body needs for healthy cell growth. Drugs such as marijuana, tranquilizers, amphetamines, heroin, and other similar drugs can cause allergic reactions and dryness, as well as aggravate the skin.

Studies show that smoking can lead to premature aging and wrinkling of the skin. The way this happens is nicotine causes small blood vessels and capillaries to contract, which decreases the blood circulation to the skin and deprives it of oxygen and essential nutrients.

Weight gain or loss can also worsen the skin condition. As excess weight is gained, the skin stretches. When the weight is lost too fast, the skin does not have time to adjust to the changes in the facial muscles. The result is premature wrinkling and sagging skin. It is better to lose weight gradually with the aid of a physician.

WHAT ARE BROKEN CAPILLARIES?

2009-03-24T00:18:00.001-04:00

Broken capillaries usually appear mostly on the nose and cheeks. They are caused extremes in hot and cold weather, spicy food, and/or poor circulation.

WHAT ARE CYSTS?

2009-03-24T00:18:00.000-04:00

Cysts are severe pimples that take a longer time to reach the surface of the skin. As a cyst works its way to the surface, it destroys many live cells and may leave a permanent scar.

WHAT ARE WHITEHEADS?

2009-03-24T00:17:00.001-04:00

Whiteheads are caused by accumulation of dead, keratinized cells and sebaceous matter trapped beneath the skin. They mostly occurs on the face.

WHAT ARE BLACKHEADS?

2009-03-24T00:17:00.000-04:00

Blackheads are a mass of keratinized cells and hardened sebum that appear mostly on the face. When the hair follicle is filled with an excess of oil from the sebaceous glands and an accumulation of dead cells occurs, a blackhead forms. If not treated, medical attention may be necessary. To treat blackheads, the skin must be cleansed and the blackheads must be removed under sterile conditions.

WHAT ARE DARK SPOTS?

2009-03-24T00:16:00.002-04:00

Dark Spots are due to hormones, oxidation by hormones, pregnancy, bruising by acne, and free radicals. Most spots can be removed. If spots are too deep they are difficult to remove. Good exfoliation will help, as well as peels. Certain types of bleaching mask treatments will help also. There is also a drug in the market available for hyperpigmentation called Lustra, a product containing 4% hydroquinone, glycolic acid and an antioxidant complex. It is prescribed by physicians only. In controlled clinical studies, "Lustra demonstrated a substantial reduction in pigmented lesions within a two-week period and even proved to be effective against melasma-a resistant form of hyperpigmentation that's related to hormonal activity." It is crucial to wear sunscreen to block UVA and UVB rays.

WHAT CAUSES OILY SKIN?

2009-03-24T00:16:00.001-04:00

Oily skin is commonly shiny with large pores especially around the nose and cheeks. The sebaceous glands which secrete a sealing film of oil to coat the pores, are overproducing. While heredity plays a dominant role in skin type, hormones, immune system deficiencies, lifestyles, and chronic irritation set the stage for aggravated oily skin. This leads to a shiny appearance. At the worst, excess oil can be trapped in the pores due to keratinization of tissue on the skin's surface. This trapped oil sometimes mingles with bacteria to cause eruptions. Other contributing factors include alcohol consumption, smoking, an unbalanced diet, vitamin or mineral deficiencies especially in zinc and vitamin A, stress, pollution, and lack of water intake. Oily skin and skin with acne should not be confused. A skin with an over production of oil is not necessarily a skin with acne. The key is to control the sebum production and not to eliminate it. Sebum is important and can actually protect te skin against sunrays.

Be careful not to treat skin with harsh products. If skin has been aggressively treated with a harsh or irritating ingredient, it may be excessively dry or tight on the surface, while impurities will still remain trapped under dead skin.

Be sure to use oil-free, non-comedogenic foundation and powder. Heavy, oil-based foundations may camouflage skin problems but also invite trouble, clogging pores and adding other oils and irritants to overburdened skin.

Lifestyle choices make an impact on their skin as well. A balanced diet plays an important role in general skin health. It is recommend that a person follow a low-fat diet with plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables. Drink 8-10 glasses of water daily. Along with regular facial treatments, it is important to maintain skin at home.

Regular exfoliation treatments can greatly reduce clogged pores that lead to pimples. Weekly exfoliation followed by a mask is one of the most important regimens a person can use to maintain the effectiveness of the treatments. Enzyme peels work well to slough off dead skin cells, while helping to stimulate circulation. Papain, an enzyme from papaya is an excellent and gentle exfoliator that is well-tolerated by most skin types. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) can have a dramatic effect on keeping oily skin free of blemishes. This is accomplished by speeding up the rate of turnover of skin cells in the epidermal layer. Some tolerate lactic acid based AHAs while others do well with fruit based ones like glycolics.

IS THERE A CREAM FOR MORNING-AFTER SUNBURN?

2009-03-24T00:16:00.000-04:00

To correct sunburn damage, a new cream has been recently developed called Dimericine which can repair sun-damaged DNA.

I SUFFER FROM ROSACEA, WHAT CAN I DO?

2009-03-24T00:15:00.001-04:00

Rosacea is a chronic skin disorder of unknown causes that is controllable. Rosacea sufferers go through periods of flare-ups, and periods of remission where symptoms can disappear entirely although the condition is not cured.

External factors such as sun, cold weather, hot weather, and wind can worsen rosacea. Those who suffer from rosacea should wear sunscreen and hats, use calming alcohol-free toners in the summer to keep skin cool, and protect their faces with soft scarves in the winter.

While different individuals are sensitive to different things, alcoholic beverages, caffeine, chocolate, citrus fruits, spicy foods, liver, cheese, hot beverages, and soy sauce are some that are considered aggravators.

Avoid ingredients that are commonly associated with irritation such as: witch hazel, alcohol, peppermint, fragrance, peppermint, clove oil, menthol, eucalyptus oil, and salicylic acid. Exfoliants and astringents also exacerbate rosacea and sensitive skin. In order to clean the inflammatory lesions of rosacea, try medical therapy. However, laser treatments are the most effective of clearing redness and blood vessels. Contact the American Society of Laser Medicine and Surgery for a referral to a laser specialist.

Oral antibiotics such as minocycline, doxycycline and tetracycline may be recommended for a short period thus avoiding the undesirable side effects of long term antibiotic therapy.

Do not use alkaline cleansers or any scrubs or grains. Also avoid using astringents, alcohol, exfoliants, and many essential oils, for example eucalyptus, peppermint, menthol, as well as topical steroids, witch hazel and products with heavy fragrance.

Recently the FDA approved Oracea for treating inflammatory lesions of rosacea. It is by prescription. Oracea can also be combined with topical therapies and laser treatment to lessen redness.

WHAT IS ACNE ROSACEA?

2009-03-24T00:15:00.000-04:00

Acne Rosacea usually occurs between 30 to 50 years old but can be at any age. Rosacea is linked with the amount of histamines in the skin and is mostly being seen due to environment issues. It happens to very allergic and sensitive type of skin. It is recommended to change skin products often to "confuse" the skin so that skin does not get used to the same ingredients. Do this four to six times a year. Do not use perfume-type product on the face. Symptoms are red, patchy, dry, flaky skin. The cauliflower nose effect is from old, large, broken blood vessels. Alcohol causes blood vessels to expand even more. So avoid alcohol.

DOES CHOCOLATE CAUSE ACNE?

2009-03-24T00:14:00.001-04:00

Chocolate does not usually cause acne unless the person is allergic to chocolate. Research has not yet proven that any specific foods—such as chocolate or greasy, fried foods—promote acne. A balanced diet is best for one's body and skin. If breakouts occur after eating something specific, it's best to stop eating that food for awhile to see what happens. Hormonal changes are thought to be at the root of the problem of acne.

WHAT ARE SOME OF THE CAUSES OF ACNE?

2009-03-24T00:14:00.000-04:00

Acne is the most common skin disorder in the United States, affecting 17 million Americans. Nearly 80% of people aged 11 to 30 have acne, mostly on their face, chest, and back. Chocolate or greasy foods do not cause acne but certain foods seem to make people's acne worse. What causes acne? The following: Hereditary factors, an increase in male hormones found in both males and females, emotional stress, menstruation, inadequate intake of water, diet high in processed foods, lack of exercise, poor digestion, food allergies (especially to dairy products), nutritional deficiencies, and oil and grease from cosmetics.

There are ways to treat acne. Do not squeeze pimples unless pus is shown. Seek treatment from a professional early on for severe acne. Wash gently affected areas twice a day with a proper mild soap and warm water. Shampoo hair often if it is oily. In severe cases of acne it is recommended to change the pillow case every night and use baby soap to wash the case. Keep hair pulled back and use paper towels rather than cloth towels or washcloth to avoid the spread of infection. Avoid toners (astringents) and other products that strip your skin of natural moisture. Use oil-free cosmetics and sunscreens. If internal medicine is needed for severe acne, see a dermatologist.

WHAT IS ACNE?

2009-03-24T00:13:00.003-04:00

Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the sebaceous hair follicles. Every follicle contains a tiny hair and multiple sebaceous glands. With normal circumstances, sebum, the oily substance made by the sebaceous glands, travels up the hair follicle and out to the skin's surface. However, with acne, sebum is trapped within the follicle and skin bacteria multiplies within the clogged pores. Acne usually develops on those areas (the face, scalp, neck, chest, upper arms, back, and shoulders) of the skin where the sebaceous glands are most numerous.

Glycolic acid peel is one of the most common peels used to treat acne. Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid, which when used in combination with oral or topical medications, can hasten the response of acne to treatment by reducing the amount of sebum being trapped in the follicles. Glycolic acid peels exfoliate dead layers of the skin.

Salicylic acid peels are also used to treat acne. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that is oil soluble and can penetrate oil plugged pores. A Salicylic acid peel can be repeated every two to four weeks.

WHAT CAN I DO TO STAY HEALTHY?

2009-03-24T00:13:00.002-04:00

Science tells us there are several things you can do to defy the effects of time:

1. Exercise - Exercises have been shown to produce the growth hormone, a hormone that has been shown to reverse the sign of aging and rejuvenate aged cells. You need three types of exercises: for the heart, for the joints, and for the muscles.

2. Eat Healthy - It is important to incorporate a healthy balanced diet. The high fat, high sugar, and high salt combination of the average diet has negative affects on our brain and organs. Avoid refined sugar because it is your worst enemy in fighting the aging process as it increases the production of cortisol, an age-inducing hormone.

3. Avoid Stress - Stress is considered the "Silent Killer" because it increases the levels of cortisol production in your body, which accelerates the aging process.

4. Human Growth Injections - A quick way to reduce aging is by human growth injections. However, these must be monitored by a physician.

5. Take Supplements - The American Diet is lacking in many essential nutrients. Supplements are the key to an effective anti-aging program. Combining supplements may be the best, such as: vitamins, minerals, herbs, enzymes, and antioxidants.

HOW DO I RECOGNIZE THE SIGNS OF SKIN CANCER?

2009-03-24T00:13:00.000-04:00

In the early stages, the skin my not look like a growth but a discoloration of the skin. It is important at this stage to pay attention to the size, color, shape or thickness of pre-existing moles or other growths. For example: 1) A skin growth that increases in size and appears pearly, translucent, tan, brown, black, or multicolored. 2) A mole, birthmark or beauty mark that changes color, increases in size, or changes in texture. 3) A growth that continues to itch, scab, hurt, erode or bleed. 4) An open sore or wound on the skin that does not heal or persists for more than four weeks.

WHAT IS SKIN CANCER?

2009-03-24T00:12:00.000-04:00

Skin cancer is a malignant condition that begins with the excessive, uncontrolled growth of abnormal cells in one of the layers of the skin. There are several types of skin cancers; the differences depend on the kinds of cells from which the tumors arise. The three main types are: basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and malignant melanoma. Anyone can be affected but skin cancer is prevalent among people with fair skin, and people of any skin type who allow themselves considerable exposure to the sun. Skin cancer may also tend to run in families.

WHAT IS AGING?

2009-03-24T00:11:00.001-04:00

Aging is a biological occurrence that exists in human beings and animals. You start aging from the day you were born. The aging process varies from one person to another and has nothing to do with your age. Some people have wrinkles in their twenties. And some may not get wrinkles until they are fifty. When a person ages, all the structures of the human body's system suffer from aging, such as: tissues, organs, cells, molecules, mitochondria, and connections between cells and extracellular matrix.

There are two types of aging: those genetically defined, and those influenced by the environment.

When skin ages, you will notice: a decrease of sebum secretion, thinness of the skin, dehydration, loss of elasticity, hyperpigmentation, and fines lines to deep wrinkles.

Aging is a disease state characterized by three phases:

FIRST STAGE: Ages 25 to 35 - At this stage most hormone levels start to decrease. The Growth hormone level has already fallen about 14% by age 35. Stress, environmental pollution, and a poor diet cause cellular damage and radical formation not visible to the naked eye. Although you may look and feel good on the outside, internally cellular damage is already happening.

SECOND STAGE: Ages 35 to 45 - By age 45, production of many hormones has fallen by more than 25%. At this time, signs of aging begin to show. Symptoms show up such as: graying of the hair, increased pigmentation, decreased vision, less energy and strength. On the inside, cellular damage by free radicals continues. The rate of damage depends on your lifestyle.

THIRD STAGE: Ages 45 and above - More hormone production continue to decline including melatonin, DHEA, growth hormone, and male and female sexual hormones. The rate of decline accelerates until the age of 70 or thereabouts. On the outside, early signs and symptoms of aging seen during the second phase worsen. The skin becomes thin and is further dehydrated as collagen fibers break down. Wrinkles and loss of energy appear more significantly. Chronic illnesses occur and organs begin to fail. Inside, as the cells give way to physical attacks, cancer and mutation car arise.

HOW CAN I STOP THE PHOTOAGING PROCESS?

2009-03-24T00:11:00.000-04:00

Unfortunately, you cannot stop it unless you stay completely OUT of the sun. Photoaging is caused from years and years of sun exposure. A person must stop to deliberately tan and use at least an SPF-15 every single day.

The usage of Alphahydroxy Acid Products (AHA) can help treat photoaging. AHA are products that contain one or more of the following: glycolic, lactic, tartaric, malic, betahydroxy (BHA) salicylic and citric acid. These products should be in at least 10 percent concentration for home care and a pH no lower than 3.5, according to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, a special group of scientists and dermatologists. Less than that is not as effective, but higher concentrations can cause irritation. Around the eye area, a person should use a lower percentage since this is a thin fragile area that should be treated gently.

Sunscreens are very important and help block the sun. An SPF 15 or higher is recommended – creams for dry skin, lotions for oily skin. Sunscreens that contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are great choices.

The use of “night hydrators” over the AHA product at night is recommended. Hydrators like hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, glycerin, or sorbitol combined with emollients help to provide moisture replenishment overnight.

A person should understand that home care in addition to salon care is necessary for best results. Certainly the basics: cleanser, toner, sunscreen, night cream, and eye cream. But it won’t help if a person is using a great night cream and washing the face with a stripping bar soap! Salon care should include AHA peel treatments. The AHA series will help get rid of cell build-up, refine fine lines, improve discolorations and help to better hydrate the skin. Normally, a series of six visits, twice a week for three weeks is the best way to start a program. Depending on the skin and its progress, you may then move on to maintenance and hydrating facial treatments, accompanied by once or twice a month AHA treatment.

WHAT CAN I DO ABOUT PRE-MATURE WRINKLES FROM SUN TANNING?

2009-03-24T00:10:00.001-04:00

Damage done to the skin by the sun affects millions of Americans today. Natural aging is personified by a thinning of the skin and a deepening of the normal facial expression lines. As the skin ages, it becomes more fragile and thin fine wrinkles appear. By contrast, photoaging is eminent by coarse wrinkles, lots of freckles, dry and rough skin, skin discoloration, and loss of elasticity. Unprotected outdoor activity makes the skin lose its ability to bounce back from stretching and deep, dry wrinkles will form. The best protection includes staying out of the sun completely or using sunscreens. Several treatments can help turn back the time:

Tretinoin Topical Treatments

Tretinoin is currently available on the market for treating photoaging skin. Tretinoin has been shown to reduce the fine wrinkles and skin discoloration due to chronic sun exposure.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs are natural compounds derived from fruit and dairy products. Glycolic and lactic acids are the most common ones.

The use of products containing retinoids or AHA's along with skin cleansing, skin maintenance, and sunscreen, can mildly improve skin damage and photaging.

Surgical Skin Treatments

Today patients are inclined to combine medical treatments with noninvasive techniques to reverse the signs of aging. Some of these treatments include: microdermabrasion, acid peels, superficial laser peels. These procedures remove the upper layer of the skin (damaged skin) leaving younger looking skin. They also reduce wrinkles and fade pigment spots. There is less or no recovery time, allowing patients to go back to work immediately.

HOW CAN I TELL IF MY SKIN IS OVERPROCESSED?

2009-03-24T00:10:00.000-04:00

Overprocessed skin is skin that has been exposed to too many exfoliants, too many peels, or too many stimulants. The result can be overly sensitive skin that seems to react to everything. The barrier function of the skin is the matrix of lipids between cells in the outermost epidermis. It is this lipid barrier that keeps skin well-hydrated, protecting it from transepidermal water loss (TEWL). If we strip the barrier lipids, we can severly dehydrate and irritate the skin. When the barrier function has been disrupted, a person may feel that anything she/he applies stings and burns the skin.

How is the barrier stripped? Overexfoliating or overcleansing the skin can remove lipids creating a sensitive, dry, or inflamed skin. AHAs (glycolic, lactic, malic, and tartaric acids) work by removing surface cells, revealing a smoother surface. When used correctly, they actually improve the barrier function! However, it is when the desire of the client is to abuse and overuse certain treatments and products on the skin that overprocessing occurs. Another example, a foaming cleanser designed for oily skin, but used on dehydrated skin, can definitely strip the lipid barrier.

CAN ANYONE GET A PEEL?

2009-03-24T00:09:00.002-04:00

Glycolic and AHA peels are great for people of all skin types. It's a way for people to take care of their skin without turning to surgery. Glycolic and AHA peels are an excellent way to help people achieve younger, healthier looking skin. These peels are successful in treating and improving fine lines, wrinkles, large pores, sagging skin, freckles, pigmentation, sun spots, beard bumps, stretch marks, and acne. Clients should receive a peel treatment once a week or every other week for a series of six to eight times. They should also be re-evaluated every four to six weeks to see if they need another treatment or series of treatments, depending on their skin type. Clients should take proper care of their skin at home after a peel. For the first 24 to 48 hours, they should NOT use a night treatment with glycolics or anything such as Retin-A®.

WHY DO I HAVE TO USE A SUNSCREEN WHEN USING AN AHA OR BHA PRODUCT OR PEEL?

2009-03-24T00:09:00.001-04:00

Because your skin may become more sensitive. And it becomes more sensitive and needs more protection because AHAs and BHA exfoliate the build-up of damaged skin. Isn't it better to improve the exterior of your skin by removing damaged skin than to leave it in place? It's not the AHAs or BHA that cause the skin to be more sensitive to the sun. All they do is remove the damaged skin. It is the skin underneath that is new and vulnerable to the sun.

WHAT CAN AHA PEELS DO TO WRINKLES?

2009-03-24T00:09:00.000-04:00

AHAs can help even out skin tones and improve problem-prone complexions. They can also minimize the appearance of superficial lines on the face by exfoliating the outer dead cell layer, where many fine lines are evident. But they will not eliminate the furrows or wrinkles. AHA peels ranging from 20% to 40% in low concentrations will show after two to three treatments less noticeable wrinkles, a smoother surface, and less redness from surface acne scars. But will not effect ice-pick scars or scars from chicken pox.

WHAT SHOULD I EXPECT AFTER AN AHA PEEL SALON TREATMENT?

2009-03-24T00:08:00.000-04:00

The dead cell layer will slough off. This will make your skin appear slightly drier than normal. After a fresh layer appears, it will appear more youthful and luminous. Again, depending on the condition of the skin and the rate of dead cell layer exfoliation, the skin may appear more or less dry during this time. Your skin will begin to show noticeable improvement ONLY after a few weeks of continued use of glycolic acid salon treatments. Regarding acne skin, your skin may initially appear slightly more active. However, as pores are cleared, skin should quickly show noticeable improvement. You must use a sunscreen when using glycolic acid-based products to prevent any potential increase in sun sensitivity. It is well known that sun exposure is the leading cause of premature aging. Furthermore, if you are using a skin bleaching lotion containing hydroquinone, the lack of sun protection, combined with overexposure to the sun, can aggravate a potentially serious condition known as "hyperpigmentation."

HOW DO MODELS GET THEIR LEGS SO SHINY?

2009-03-24T00:05:00.002-04:00

By applying a special cream or lotion. One product to try is GKAY's Shiny Legs at www.stormalina.com.It is a very popular product in the USA today. Made from a cream. When applied, it turns into a shiny gloss. It will stay shiny and won't absorb until you wipe or rub it off.

HOW DO CELLS RENEW?

2009-03-24T00:05:00.000-04:00

The cell renewal factor (CRF) is a natural process that slows down with age. Babies renew their cells every 14 days, teenagers every 21 to 28 days, middle-age adults every 28 to 42 days and it takes 42 to 48 days to renew cells by age 50 or older. Many things influence our CRF like the environment, genetics, hygiene and lifestyles. The corneum layer of the epidermis consists of 15 to 20 layers. Excess dead skin cells accumulate on its surface. That is why exfoliation, also called superficial peeling, is important.

There are two types of exfoliation: mechanical and chemical. Mechanical exfoliation involves physically sloughing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. Examples are microdermabrasion, brush machines or scrubs. Chemical exfoliation entails chemical agents that dissolve the intercellular glue that binds dead skin cells as one. Examples are TCA peels, AHA peels such as glycolic and lactic acid, and BHA peels such as salicylic acid.

I AM TAKING TETRACYCLINE ANTIBIOTICS FOR MY SKIN BUT IT IS NOT WORKING WHY?

2009-03-24T00:04:00.001-04:00

Tetracycline antibiotics can be helpful for acne condition. Do not take tetracycline along with iron supplements because you will be reducing the levels of efficacy. Also avoid zinc supplements, dairy products and antacids while on tetracycline. Or wait two to three hours before or after you take iron or zinc supplements, dairy or antacids products.

WHAT DESTROYS SKIN?

2009-03-24T00:04:00.000-04:00

IS DARK SKIN PROTECTED FROM THE SUN?

2009-03-24T00:03:00.001-04:00

No, dark skin is not shielded from the sun. Sun exposure is harmful to ALL skin types and can cause skin cancer. Everyone should use a sunscreen daily. Ethnic skin is more prone to hyperpigmentation (dark spots). However, use of sunscreens daily will help prevent this condition.

WHY YOU SHOULD DRINK WATER?

2009-03-24T00:03:00.000-04:00

Surely you have heard that water is good for you. But why is it good for you? Well, water is very important for cellular metabolism and for the body to do detoxification. Eating watery fruits and vegetables is great as well. Try to drink at least eight to ten glasses of water a day.

HOW CAN I FIGHT AGING?

2009-03-24T00:02:00.003-04:00

Aging can be related to your genes as well as environmental factors. Experts say that 80-99 percent of what we see on our adult skin is due to environmental factors, especially sun exposure. Wrinkles occur as a result of a reduction in muscle mass and skin thickness, and loss of elasticity.

How can we fight the signs of aging? By using products with special anti-aging ingredients. Such example of ingredients: retinoids, tretinoin (Vitamin A), ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), Alpha Hydroxy Acids (lactic and glycolic acid), antioxidants ( green tea extract and Vitamin E), bioflavonoids (green tea, gingko biloba and licorice extracts), pigment brighteners ( bearberry extract, rice extract, etc.). And of course, using sunscreens to block away the sun's damaging rays.

WHAT ARE THE MAIN INGREDIENTS THAT A GOOD SUNSCREEN SHOULD HAVE?

2009-03-24T00:02:00.002-04:00

A good sunscreen should have as the main ingredient: Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or avobenzone (Also called Parsol 1789 or butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane) for it to be an effective sunscreen.

The FDA has recently approved a new sunscreen that's supposed to block BOTH UVA and UVB. This new sunscreen (previously NOT available in the United States) contains Mexoryl SX, an ingredient that provides more UVA protection.

DOES ETHNIC SKIN AGE SLOWER THAN NON-ETHNIC SKIN?

2009-03-24T00:01:00.001-04:00

Generally speaking yes. However, hereditary factors play a major role. The reason why ethnic skin ages slower than non-ethnic skin is because the melanin found in ethnic skin, which filters out the sun's harmful ultraviolet rays, provides it with a natural sun protection. This is why dark skin, black especially, is more protected against premature wrinkling from sun exposure and skin cancer. Also, dark skin is usually thicker than light skin and thicker skin does not show signs of aging rapidly as thinner, more delicate skin. Thus, due to the thickness of the skin and the larger, more plentiful sebaceous glands linked with dark skin, fine lines and wrinkles are less noticeable.

ARE THERE SOME WAYS TO TREAT WRINKLES?

2009-03-23T23:55:00.000-04:00

Most wrinkles are the result of the breakdown of elastin and collagen fibers in the dermis (deeper layer of the skin). The greatest way to reduce wrinkles is to cause new growth of collagen in the dermis. Studies have proven that the only way to successfully decrease wrinkles is to disturb or "injure" the skin cells in the dermis. The skin cells in the dermis react to the injury by producing new collagen fibers that fill in the dermis more fully, thus reducing wrinkles. This is the same premise with all wrinkle reducing treatments such as laser, chemical peels and dermabrasion. For example, with chemical peels the skin is burned and in order to heal the skin has to produce more collagen, thereby firming the wrinkles.

WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I HAVE PSORIASIS?

2009-03-23T23:19:00.000-04:00

If you have psoriasis, you should avoid foods that contain hydrogenated oil or partially hydrogenated oil because these artificial fats filter linoleic acid - a fatty acid found in certain vegetables - from the body. Sources of linoleic acid include: soybeans, corn oil, sunflower oil, safflower oil, and primrose oil (which has the highest concentrations). For those who suffer from psoriasis, hydrogenated oils add to the dryness of the skin. Also, it may help to eliminate all starches and sugars as these foods interfere with the immune system. Recently the Eximer laser was approved by the FDA. It is great for treating psoriasis. After use of this laser, patients' skin usually clears or improves greatly within 10 treatments.